Italian Riviera: 3 Days in Portovenere
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Portovenere (aka Port Venere) is a charming port town on the Italian Riviera. Located on the Ligurian Sea, Portovenere borders the village of Riomaggiore and is often referred to as the “sixth” Cinque Terre town. Our 3 day itinerary outlines to the best things to do in Portovenere, Italy.
Like the other Cinque Terre towns, Portovenere has a colorful harbor, narrow cobblestone alleys, and ancient architecture. Must-do activities include touring Doria Castle and swimming in Byron’s Grotto. Highlights of the itinerary include exploring Portovenere’s Old Town, taking a trip to Cinque Terre, and touring the islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto.
The colorful fishing village of Portovenere is one of our favorite places on the Italian Riviera. For more trip planning information on this UNESCO World Heritage site, read our Italian Riviera: Portovenere guide and Things to Do in Portovenere travel blog posts.
PORTOVENERE HOTELS
Portovenere is a small walkable community. Visitors can find accommodations along the waterfront, in Old Town, or in the surrounding neighborhoods. Here are a few well-reviewed Portovenere hotels to consider for your stay:
Grand Hotel Portovenere: 5 star boutique hotel. Built in the 1600s, the building has been recognized for its historic and cultural heritage.
Colonna 24: Charming B&B accommodations in the heart of Portovenere.
Hotel Della Baia; Waterfront hotel with pool, free breakfast and wifi.
Hotel Belvedere: Mid-priced hotel in good location with free breakfast and air conditioning.
ITALIAN RIVIERA TOURS
Many tour operators have kiosks by the Portovenere waterfront. Day tour to the area from La Spezia, Florence, Pisa, and other locations are also popular. Consider these well-reviewed tours to the Portovenere region.
PORTOVENERE ITINERARY 3 DAYS
Day 1: Portovenere Old Town
Begin your exploration of Portovenere by the Mediterranean Sea. Notice the row of tower houses, called “La Palazzata,” lining the harbor. The tall, thin connected buildings were designed to protect the village from marauding pirates.
Along the waterfront pass humble fishing vessels parked next to luxury yachts. Wander an array of bars, restaurants, and galleries. At one end of the harbor, spy the majestic Chiesa di San Pietro (Church of St. Peter). Look upwards to see Castle Doria and the remnants of her watch towers. In the distance, glimpse Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto islands.
Leaving the waterfront, head to the impressive Porta del Borgo. Pass under the 12th century city gate and follow Via Giovanni Capellini through the medieval heart of the village. Along the town’s main street, visitors will find craft, bakery, gelato, and textile shops to peruse.
Exiting Via Giovanni Capellini, meander a spindly maze of narrow ‘carruggi’ (alleys) that fan off of the main drag. It does not take long for foot traffic to subside. Just a block or so back, the courtyards and cafes are just as pretty, but less populated.
When you are done rambling, make your way along the waterfront to the Chiesa di San Pietro. Sitting on an outcropping of rock overlooking the Ligurian Sea, the Genoan-Gothic church resembles like a fairytale castle. Erected in 1277, the church was built over a Pegan temple dedicated to the Goddess Venus (“Venere”). The town was named by combining “Porto,” meaning harbor, with Venere.
PORTOVENERE DAY TRIPS & TOURS
The promenade, or loggia, in front of the Chiesa di San Pietro has gorgeous views of the harbor. Take care as you are walking. The centuries old walkway is so smooth it can be slippery. If the church is open, step inside (it is a working church, so take care not to interrupt services). The church is quite plain on the inside. After, climb the narrow staircase that leads to the roof for fantastic views.
From Chiesa di San Pietro, begin the climb to Doria Castle. Along the walk, pass a stairway that leads down to Byron’s Grotto as well as a glorious statue of Mother Nature.
After a bit of a hike uphill, look for the Portovenere Communal Cemetery. With its white stones and crosses set against the blue of the Mediterranean Sea and the sky, the cemetery has to be one of the most beautiful final resting places.
It is just a short trek from the cemetery to the ruins of Doria Castle (Castello Doria). Built over five centuries, the Genoan military fortress was once a critical part of the town’s medieval defenses. There is a small fee to enter the castle (we paid $5 Euros each). Once inside the fortress, there are ramparts, terraced gardens, and other artifacts in various states of ruin to observe.
From Doria Castle, start downhill toward the Church of San Lorenzo (aka Santuario della Madonna Biance). The pretty church is famous for its celebration of the White Madonna each August. If you would prefer to explore Old Town on a guided tour, try this excursion: Walking Tour Around Portovenere.
This evening, enjoy a sunset cruise along the Italian Riviera and the Mediterranean Sea.
Day 2: Day Trip to Cinque Terre
On Day 2 of your Portovenere itinerary, explore the Cinque Terre villages of Vernazza and Manarola. Buy a one-day roundtrip Levanto – Cinque Terre – Portovenere – La Spezia ticket to board the local Cinque Terre ferry (around $40; ferries run March through November). This ticket type allows you to hop on and hop off the ferry at any of its stops.
Take the earliest morning ferry (usually around 9am) to Monterosso. The trip will take about 1.5 hours. Along the route you will pass by the Cinque Terre Towns of Riomaggiore, Manarola, cliff-top Corniglia, Vernazza, and finally Monterosso. Disembark in Monterosso, but stay at the ferry port. Take the next ferry heading in the reverse direction one stop back to the village of Vernazza.
Disembark in Vernazza and walk toward the colorful kaleidoscope of Italian villas. There is one main road in town. Follow it to explore the town’s shops and restaurants. As the road curves upward, look for the ruins of a castle, an old church, and finally vineyards as far as the eye can see.
CINQUE TERRE DAY TRIPS
Everywhere you stroll, there are gorgeous views. Later, walk the exquisitely vibrant waterfront with its sunbathers and fishing boats. When you are ready, take the ferry to Manarola.
Disembarking in Manarola, hike the main road running through town with its small square, trattorias, and shops. Walk the path outside of town to the Nessum Dorma restaurant. Order a meal of bruschetta, meats, and cheeses, and eat on their panoramic seaside terrace above the town.
Before leaving Manarola, spend some time on the rocky waterfront. Swim (or watch the swimmers) in the town’s protected harbor. If you are lucky, observe the young people diving from the rocks into the Mediterranean Sea, and/or the fishermen hoisting their boats out of the water. When you are ready, catch the ferry back to Portovenere. To see the Cinque Terre on a guided tour, try this excursion: Cinque Terre Daytime Boat Tour.
Tonight, make reservations for dinner at the Palmaria Restaurant in the Grand Hotel Portovenere. As you dine, watch the sun set from the restaurant’s verandah overlooking the sea.
Day 3: Tour Palmaria, Tino, and Tinnetto. Swim in Byron’s Grotto
Spend Day 3 exploring the Portovenere’s spectacular natural environment. Portovenere, along with the neighboring islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto, has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site for the area’s exceptional historical, natural, and cultural value.
Begin the day with a catamaran or speed boat tour of the Bay of Poets and surrounding islands. Tour operators book excursions from the Portovenere waterfront throughout the day. Itineraries take in the many cliffs, caves, and beaches that ring the islands. Palmaria’s Blue Grotto is a highlight of many trips (it can only be seen by boat).
PORTOVENERE WATER TOURS & EXCURSIONS
Next, grab your bathing suit and head for Byron’s Grotto. Spend a few hours swimming and sunbathing under the cliffs. The rocky expanse of coast is where the poet Lord Byron used to swim with Keats Shelley and other friends (hence the Gulf of Spezia became known as the “Bay of Poets”).
After a nap, have dinner of fresh seafood in Old Town. Or, try a sunset tour on the water with this excursion: Portovenere: Islands Sunset Boat Trip with Dinner on Board.
È stato un piacere (It was a pleasure), Laura and Randy
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