Italian Riviera: Portovenere
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Portovenere (aka Porto Venere) is a charming fishing village on the Italian Riviera. The UNESCO World Heritage Site is famous for its picturesque harbor. Lined with an ancient wall of brightly colored houses, the connected buildings were designed to ward off attacks from raiding pirates. Our Portovenere travel guide includes information on the town’s medieval ruins, Mediterranean landscapes, and how to plan the perfect trip.
Portovenere is a town made for romance. After passing through an imposing town gate, narrow ‘carruggi’ (alleys) transport visitors to a web of Old Town shops and restaurants. Outside of the village center Doria Castle, Chiesa di San Pietro, and the poet Lord Byron’s Grotto are waiting to be explored.
Situated one town over from Riomaggiore, Portovenere is sometimes called the "secret," or sixth, of the Cinque Terre towns. Of all the places Randy and I visited on our trip to the Cinque Terre region, Portovenere was our favorite. With a unique combination of gorgeous views, great cultural attractions, and a slower pace than the villages of the Cinque Terre, Portovenere is a gem you do not want to miss.
ITALIAN RIVIERA: TOURS OF THE CINQUE TERRE TOWNS
WHERE IS THE ITALIAN RIVIERA
The Italian Riviera is an area on the northwestern coast of Italy that is flanked by the Ligurian Sea (an arm of the Mediterranean Sea) and a chain of mountains. The area extends about 200 miles along the shore, roughly between the French Riviera and Tuscany.
Portovenere and Cinque Terre are located on the Ligurian Sea’s Gulf of La Spezia (aka the “Gulf of Poets”). Portovenere, and the nearby islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto, are home to the Porto Venere Regional Natural Park, a well-known protected area with many caves, dive sites, trails, and beaches. Many tour operators offer excursions to the area, such as the Portovenere: Isola Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto Boat Tour.
ABOUT PORTOVENERE
Portovenere originated as a Roman navel outpost. The name Portovenere comes from a temple to Venus (Venere) that once stood on the site where the Chiesa di San Pietro was later erected in the 13th century. Portovenere’s waterfront is lined with tall, thin, 11th century terratetto houses. The structures were built in a wall-like formation to form a barrier against sea faring pirates.
Portovenere and the islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto achieved UNESCO World Heritage status in 1997 due to the area’s scenic, historical, and cultural value. Palmaria, the largest of the three islands, is known for its pristine beaches, hiking trails, and Blue Grotto. Tino and Tinetto are primarily military zones.
HOW TO GET TO PORTOVENERE
By Train
There is no train connection to Portovenere. The nearest train station is located in the town of La Spezia. From here, visitors can take a bus or rent a car to arrive in Portovenere. The bus station is about a 10 minute walk from the train depot. There are several car rental agencies in La Spezia. Click here to investigate train travel in the Cinque Terre region.
By Bus
The 11/P bus travels from La Spezia to Portovenere about every 30 minutes throughout the day. The journey costs around 3 euros. Tickets must be purchased in advance of boarding, and are usually bought from local Tabaccheria shops (look for a “T” outside the shop), or at dedicated kiosks. Keep in mind, shops can be difficult to locate, buses often run late, and they fill up fast in high season (you may need to wait for the next bus).
By Boat
Between March and the beginning of November, daily ferries run between La Spezia, Portovenere, and the Cinque Terre (Monterosso, Vernazza, Manarola, and Riomaggiore). You can bring luggage on the ferries. Beginning at 9am, ferries run roughly every hour. You can also rent a private water taxi to transport you along the coast. Click here to investigate ferry tours and pricing.
By Car
Portovenere can be accessed by car via state roads. From La Spezia it is a 20-30 minute drive. Portovenere differs from the Cinque Terra villages in that you can drive right into town and park next to Old Town. Parking spaces can be difficult to find and expensive. Private transfers can also be booked. Click here to investigate car rentals in Italy.
IS PORTOVENERE A GOOD BASE FOR VISITING THE CINQUE TERRE
Portovenere is an excellent stand-alone destination on the Italian Riviera. If you love history, hiking, and exploring medieval ruins in a village-like atmosphere, you will be enchanted with Portovenere.
Use Portovenere as your base for exploring the Cinque Terre towns if you prefer smaller crowds and a quieter mid-day experience. During the ferry season (March through October), you can easily travel during the day light hours to the coastal Cinque Terre villages (not Corniglia) from Portovenere.
However, if your primary objective is to hike between the villages of the Cinque Terre, Randy and I would not recommend using Portovenere as your base. To arrive at trailheads, it is fast and easy to travel by train between the five villages, but Portovenere has no train station. Every time you traveled to the Cinque Terre by train, you would first need car or bus transport from Portovenere to La Spezia (before taking the train to Cinque Terre).
Also, if you plan to use the ferry to travel to the five villages for hiking be aware that the earliest morning ferry leaves Portovenere around 9am, arriving in Riomaggiore around 9:30am or Monterosso around 10:30 am – late to begin a day on the trail.
PORTOVENERE HOTELS
There is a wide range of hotels in Portovenere at an array of price points. Consider these well-reviewed hotels:
Grand Hotel Portovenere: 5 star boutique hotel. Built in the 1600s, the building has been recognized for its historic and cultural heritage.
Colonna 24: Charming B&B accommodations in the heart of Portovenere.
Hotel Della Baia; Waterfront hotel with pool, free breakfast and wifi.
Hotel Belvedere: Mid-priced hotel in good location with free breakfast and air conditioning.
THINGS TO SEE IN PORTOVENERE
1. Walk the historic harbor and admire its medieval architecture. See yachts, fishing boats, and the tall, narrow houses (La Palazzata) that were once part of the town’s defenses. To explore with a local guide, book the Walking Tour Around Portovenere & Gulf of Poets.
2. Stroll beneath the town’s imposing Porta del Borgo (city gate) and explore Old Town’s narrow ‘caruggi’ (alleys) lined with bakeries, artisan shops, gelateries, bars, and restaurants.
3. Tour the Chiesa di San Pietro (Church of Saint Peter). The Genoan-Gothic church was constructed in 1277 over the ruins of a Pegan temple to Venus (Venere).
4. Hike to a stunning hilltop fortress and explore the ruins of the Doria Castle. The castle has stunning views of the Gulf of Poets.
5. Do a boat cruise around the islands of Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto. Together, with Portovenere, the area is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Try this tour: Portovenere: Palmaria, Tino, and Tinetto Boat Tour.
6. Take a day trip to the Porto Venere Regional Natural Park on Palmaria Island for a day of hiking and beach hopping with spectacular Mediterranean vistas.
7. Explore the Gotta di Byron (Byron’s Cave) where the poet Lord Byron often swam. The stunning cove is a popular place to swim, snorkel, and sunbathe.
8. Hike from Portovenere to the village of Riomaggiore. The 8 mile (13 km), 5 hour hike has a ridge trek with fantastic sea views. When you reach Riomaggiore take the ferry back.
9. Ride the ferry to Monterosso, Vernazza, Manarola, and Riomaggiore and explore the villages of the Cinque Terre. Or, book a private boat tour: From Porto Venere: Cinque Terre Villages Boat Tour.
10. Visit the Portovenere Communal Cemetery to see one of the most beautiful final resting places on earth.
BEST PORTOVENRE TOURS
PORTOVENERE WEATHER
Portovenere has a maritime climate. Summers are hot and humid, usually in the high 80’s (F). Winters are cold and cloudy, usually in the low 30’s (F). The rainiest months are October and November.
BEST TIME TO VISIT PORTOVENERE
Randy and I recommend September, May, and June as the best months to visit Portovenere. During these months the weather is warm (but not too hot and humid), the foliage is blooming, and all businesses are open. In July and August, the crowds are thickest. October and November are the rainiest. December through March are the coldest months. During the winter the ferries are not running and many businesses are closed (on the upside, the crowds are lightest). April is a bit of a transition month.
Arrivederci dalla riviera italiana (good bye from the Italian Riviera), Laura & Randy
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